Pin and double-check
The main cause of accidents with autobelays is that the climber has forgotten to attach himself to the safety rope. It is therefore important to do an extra check of the harness and attachment before the climb starts. Look extra carefully to make sure that the carabiner from the autobelay is attached and locked to the central loop. Feel free to get a friend to check for you.
Pay attention
Use all your senses, including your eyes and ears as you climb. Ditch music and earplugs. If you block your hearing, you may miss shouts or messages with vital information.
Follow the climbing route that belongs to your autobelay. Then you avoid pendulum falls.
Check the brake
When you start, climb up a short distance and drop back down. Then you can test and make sure that the brake is working properly. Before descending from the top, take an extra look at the harness and make sure that the attachment is still in order before descending in a controlled manner. Remember to look down to check that there are no people in the way where you plan to land. Give clear notice if someone is standing in the way.
Attach the rope to the barrier sail when you are finished. The rope should never be attached elsewhere, even temporarily.
For more information and comprehensive guidance, you should read the Norwegian Climbing Association's guidelines for the use of autobelays.
Checklist for climbing with autobelay
- Attach yourself to the safety rope
- Check your equipment
- Do a buddy check
- Check that the brake is working
- Follow the climbing route that belongs to your autobelay
- Use all your senses, including your eyes and ears, as you climb
- Check that the harness and attachment are in order before you let yourself down.
- Look down to check that your landing area is ready
- Attach the rope to the ratchet sail when you are done